bench table kit image
Christine
My mom and I are going camping in Bass River State Forest in the New Jersey Pine Barrens for the first time. It's a public campground with showers, flush toilets, and a fire ring and we'll be sleeping in a tent. We're only staying for one night, but since i've never done this before I was wondering what to bring and if there are any other important tips to keep in mind.
Answer
This time of year it is plenty hot enough not to require extra layers. Expect to sweat and try to wear synthetics that wick up moisture and dry quickly to stay cool. A change of underwear, a clean shirt and a fresh pair of socks and sock liners and a swimsuit should be all you need for spare clothes. Long sleeves/pants will help keep bugs off, but bring a pair of shorts to sleep in. Wear good hiking shoes or boots and don't forget thick socks with sock liners to help keep your feet cool and comfortable.
A basic sleeping bag and mat will be fine; you'll probably wind up sleeping on top of the bag in shorts and a t-shirt. A battery fan will be appreciated. Keep a clean campsite and do your cooking/eating away from your tent. Store all your food in your vehicle. Even with all this, raccoons will likely visit your campsite but will usually stay to the shadows away from people and the camp fire -- unless you have dropped scraps on the ground or haven't packed away your food. I have never seen or heard of bears being a problem in the pine barrens.
You will need a container to carry water from provided spigots to your site. The blue plastic ones sold at WalMart are fine. Check to see if your area has picnic tables, you might need to bring your own folding table and chairs. If you use the campground's picnic table, you'll want a plastic tablecloth or two (one for the table top, the other cut in half lengthwise for over the benches) and clips to keep them in place. Bring several kitchen-sized trash bags as you are required to pack out all your own trash. Bring your own stove and/or grill, or grate to put over the campfire, plus whatever cooking/eating containers and utensils you'll need. A lantern, flashlights and a small first aid kit are useful.
Get your supplies before setting-out from home or on your way, as supermarkets are quite far from the campgrounds. Use empty soda bottles filled 3/4 with water and frozen instead of bags of ice in your cooler: they last longer and don't leave your cooler full of water when they melt. Two coolers -- 1 for food and 1 for beverages -- are better than one. Remember: keep the food in your car to avoid animals. Note: alcoholic beverages are not permitted in state parks.
Bring your own dry/seasoned firewood. Chop kindling in advance or bring a hatchet. Cotton balls saturated in petroleum jelly make excellent tinder. Have a shovel and large bucket of water near the fire in case of accidents, and keep your tent far enough away that sparks and flying embers won't melt holes in the fabric. Camper courtesy is to clean-out the fire ring and leave a few sticks of firewood for the next camper (as well as completely cleaning-up all trash from your site before leaving).
Bring flip-flops or water shoes for the bathrooms, and obviously your own soap, shampoo and towel. Also, pull the cardboard tube out of 1/2 a roll of toilet paper, squash the paper flat and stick in a zip-lock bag. Carry the TP, a small hand trowel (shovel) and a second large zip-lock bag with you while hiking just in case the need suddenly strikes on the trail, or the bathrooms run out of TP.
Although you are not permitted to "swim" in any rivers or streams unless a lifeguard is present, you can legally wade in them to cool off. The water is stained a dark tea color due to tree sap and pig iron in the soil, but is actually quite clean (though should still be filtered, treated or boiled before drinking, except when drawn from a tap marked as drinking or potable water).
Biting flies, mosquitoes and other bugs will be in full force. Ticks are present year 'round. A cocktail of Avon's Skin So Soft and DEET will help keep them at bay. Wear a hat or a buff that's been treated with Permethrin to help keep bugs away from your face and sweat out of your eyes. And don't forget sun block and sunglasses. Leave make-up, hair products, etc at home -- the heat and humidity will cause these to run all over your face, making you look like Frankenstein, and the scent will attract bugs and animals.
When you stop at the ranger station to check-in, ask for any pamphlets, guides, maps to the area to plan your day's activities. Also get their phone numbers for emergency calls.
This time of year it is plenty hot enough not to require extra layers. Expect to sweat and try to wear synthetics that wick up moisture and dry quickly to stay cool. A change of underwear, a clean shirt and a fresh pair of socks and sock liners and a swimsuit should be all you need for spare clothes. Long sleeves/pants will help keep bugs off, but bring a pair of shorts to sleep in. Wear good hiking shoes or boots and don't forget thick socks with sock liners to help keep your feet cool and comfortable.
A basic sleeping bag and mat will be fine; you'll probably wind up sleeping on top of the bag in shorts and a t-shirt. A battery fan will be appreciated. Keep a clean campsite and do your cooking/eating away from your tent. Store all your food in your vehicle. Even with all this, raccoons will likely visit your campsite but will usually stay to the shadows away from people and the camp fire -- unless you have dropped scraps on the ground or haven't packed away your food. I have never seen or heard of bears being a problem in the pine barrens.
You will need a container to carry water from provided spigots to your site. The blue plastic ones sold at WalMart are fine. Check to see if your area has picnic tables, you might need to bring your own folding table and chairs. If you use the campground's picnic table, you'll want a plastic tablecloth or two (one for the table top, the other cut in half lengthwise for over the benches) and clips to keep them in place. Bring several kitchen-sized trash bags as you are required to pack out all your own trash. Bring your own stove and/or grill, or grate to put over the campfire, plus whatever cooking/eating containers and utensils you'll need. A lantern, flashlights and a small first aid kit are useful.
Get your supplies before setting-out from home or on your way, as supermarkets are quite far from the campgrounds. Use empty soda bottles filled 3/4 with water and frozen instead of bags of ice in your cooler: they last longer and don't leave your cooler full of water when they melt. Two coolers -- 1 for food and 1 for beverages -- are better than one. Remember: keep the food in your car to avoid animals. Note: alcoholic beverages are not permitted in state parks.
Bring your own dry/seasoned firewood. Chop kindling in advance or bring a hatchet. Cotton balls saturated in petroleum jelly make excellent tinder. Have a shovel and large bucket of water near the fire in case of accidents, and keep your tent far enough away that sparks and flying embers won't melt holes in the fabric. Camper courtesy is to clean-out the fire ring and leave a few sticks of firewood for the next camper (as well as completely cleaning-up all trash from your site before leaving).
Bring flip-flops or water shoes for the bathrooms, and obviously your own soap, shampoo and towel. Also, pull the cardboard tube out of 1/2 a roll of toilet paper, squash the paper flat and stick in a zip-lock bag. Carry the TP, a small hand trowel (shovel) and a second large zip-lock bag with you while hiking just in case the need suddenly strikes on the trail, or the bathrooms run out of TP.
Although you are not permitted to "swim" in any rivers or streams unless a lifeguard is present, you can legally wade in them to cool off. The water is stained a dark tea color due to tree sap and pig iron in the soil, but is actually quite clean (though should still be filtered, treated or boiled before drinking, except when drawn from a tap marked as drinking or potable water).
Biting flies, mosquitoes and other bugs will be in full force. Ticks are present year 'round. A cocktail of Avon's Skin So Soft and DEET will help keep them at bay. Wear a hat or a buff that's been treated with Permethrin to help keep bugs away from your face and sweat out of your eyes. And don't forget sun block and sunglasses. Leave make-up, hair products, etc at home -- the heat and humidity will cause these to run all over your face, making you look like Frankenstein, and the scent will attract bugs and animals.
When you stop at the ranger station to check-in, ask for any pamphlets, guides, maps to the area to plan your day's activities. Also get their phone numbers for emergency calls.
How to get 350-500 Horsepower out of a chevy 350?
Doughty
I need all the parts and brands I would need to get 350 to 500 horses out of a chevy 350. I am buying a carburated chevy 350 doesn't make a difference in model year and I want to rebuild it from bottom up I need help its my first project engine
Answer
BIG BIG BIG diff in parts for a 350 HP and 500 HP 350 engine. You can almost do 350 HP with stock parts, 500 HP, you have to go with best of everything.
I have to call BS on the guys 426 HP at wheels claim... I have done that and more and can tell you right now, listing specs off like he did, he does not know enough about engines to make that kinda power.
I'm a performance engine builder by tade, own and run my own engine shop for the last 10 years. Built many 300-400 HP, 400-500 HP, 700 and above, etc engines. A builder that can pull those numbers from a 350 does not list specs like "3/4 cam". This aint 1957 any more!
I made 505 HP at crank with double hump heads as well but the heads I spent 20+ hours on at the flow bench and porting table. Got the sorry things flowing 238 cfm (About the same as stock, un touched vortec heads lol)
I now have a 600 HP combo in my 1988 camaro. 10.4:1 355, 7000 RPM peak power point, shift at 7000-7200 rpm. Wisco forged 2 vr flat tops pistons, solid lift cam, 248/252*@.050", .570"/.579" lift, 106 LSA, brodix IK 200 heads, ported, flowing 285 cfm, holley 4150 HP 750 cfm DP carb, carter 172 GPH speedway fuel pump, RPM intake, port matched, 7 qt oil pan, windage screen, rear main baffle, knife edged crank counter weights, Mallory 685 digital box, MSD pro billet dizzy, true dual 3" pipes, 3" X pipe, dynomax ultra flow mufflers, 9.5" 3500 stall, th-400, ford 9" rear with detroit locker and 3.89 gears (after breaking 2 beefed up GM 7.625" 10 bolt rears with my 505 HP combo)
Now to the question.. Being this is your 1st build, stay mild and learn. Shoot for 350-425 HP
Northern auto parts $190 rebuild kit and upgrade to these options
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=380
Cloyes Double Roller 3 Key-way C3023XSP $12.09
High Volume Oil pump (must use oil pump shaft with steel pin sleeve) $14.20
Speed Pro 2000-4500 RPM # CS1013R 214/224 adv duration .443/.465 lift $28.61
Sealed Power H345ACP coated flattop piston $33.24
Sealed Power/Federal-Mogul Moly Coated Rings $21.27
High Volume Oil pump shaft (must be used with high volume pump) $7.99
Set of 8 Connecting Rods with ARP Bolts Scat Forged I beam 35700P $189.99
Scat New Crankshaft Cast/Steel #910442 2 Piece rear main $169.99
Have your block machined at machine shop
Hot tank cleaned $40-65
bored and honed .030" over or to 4.030" bore $80-125
Cam bearings and frost plugs installed $35-55
Have block 0 decked $60-100
Summit racing 7 qt kicked out sump oil pan and pickup $90-95
Speed way motors stainless steel windage screen $35
ARP main studs with stand offs for windage tray $60-90 depending on if 2 or 4 bolt main
Used set of 1996-2002 chevy/gmc truck, van, suv L31 vortec 350 heads
Used $200-300 (Best production Gen I small block head made, even better than some aftermarket heads. Will make 30-80 HP more than ever other production chevy head)
Howards 98214 valve springs (remove and discard inner flat damper springs) $35
Pro products Crosswind intake for vortec heads $175
Fel pro MS98000 intake gaskets $65
Summit racing HEI dizzy $90
That's around $1700-1800
Top that with a 600 cfm edelbrock or holley carb, put long tube 1-5/8" headers on it and dual 2.25" exhaust pipes.
Back it with a 2600-2800 rpm stall torque converter and 3.42 rear gears and you will have a mean street ride.
That engine combo will make 390-415 HP. I have built that same combo for my self (street V8 powered S10) along with quite a few customers.
BIG BIG BIG diff in parts for a 350 HP and 500 HP 350 engine. You can almost do 350 HP with stock parts, 500 HP, you have to go with best of everything.
I have to call BS on the guys 426 HP at wheels claim... I have done that and more and can tell you right now, listing specs off like he did, he does not know enough about engines to make that kinda power.
I'm a performance engine builder by tade, own and run my own engine shop for the last 10 years. Built many 300-400 HP, 400-500 HP, 700 and above, etc engines. A builder that can pull those numbers from a 350 does not list specs like "3/4 cam". This aint 1957 any more!
I made 505 HP at crank with double hump heads as well but the heads I spent 20+ hours on at the flow bench and porting table. Got the sorry things flowing 238 cfm (About the same as stock, un touched vortec heads lol)
I now have a 600 HP combo in my 1988 camaro. 10.4:1 355, 7000 RPM peak power point, shift at 7000-7200 rpm. Wisco forged 2 vr flat tops pistons, solid lift cam, 248/252*@.050", .570"/.579" lift, 106 LSA, brodix IK 200 heads, ported, flowing 285 cfm, holley 4150 HP 750 cfm DP carb, carter 172 GPH speedway fuel pump, RPM intake, port matched, 7 qt oil pan, windage screen, rear main baffle, knife edged crank counter weights, Mallory 685 digital box, MSD pro billet dizzy, true dual 3" pipes, 3" X pipe, dynomax ultra flow mufflers, 9.5" 3500 stall, th-400, ford 9" rear with detroit locker and 3.89 gears (after breaking 2 beefed up GM 7.625" 10 bolt rears with my 505 HP combo)
Now to the question.. Being this is your 1st build, stay mild and learn. Shoot for 350-425 HP
Northern auto parts $190 rebuild kit and upgrade to these options
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=380
Cloyes Double Roller 3 Key-way C3023XSP $12.09
High Volume Oil pump (must use oil pump shaft with steel pin sleeve) $14.20
Speed Pro 2000-4500 RPM # CS1013R 214/224 adv duration .443/.465 lift $28.61
Sealed Power H345ACP coated flattop piston $33.24
Sealed Power/Federal-Mogul Moly Coated Rings $21.27
High Volume Oil pump shaft (must be used with high volume pump) $7.99
Set of 8 Connecting Rods with ARP Bolts Scat Forged I beam 35700P $189.99
Scat New Crankshaft Cast/Steel #910442 2 Piece rear main $169.99
Have your block machined at machine shop
Hot tank cleaned $40-65
bored and honed .030" over or to 4.030" bore $80-125
Cam bearings and frost plugs installed $35-55
Have block 0 decked $60-100
Summit racing 7 qt kicked out sump oil pan and pickup $90-95
Speed way motors stainless steel windage screen $35
ARP main studs with stand offs for windage tray $60-90 depending on if 2 or 4 bolt main
Used set of 1996-2002 chevy/gmc truck, van, suv L31 vortec 350 heads
Used $200-300 (Best production Gen I small block head made, even better than some aftermarket heads. Will make 30-80 HP more than ever other production chevy head)
Howards 98214 valve springs (remove and discard inner flat damper springs) $35
Pro products Crosswind intake for vortec heads $175
Fel pro MS98000 intake gaskets $65
Summit racing HEI dizzy $90
That's around $1700-1800
Top that with a 600 cfm edelbrock or holley carb, put long tube 1-5/8" headers on it and dual 2.25" exhaust pipes.
Back it with a 2600-2800 rpm stall torque converter and 3.42 rear gears and you will have a mean street ride.
That engine combo will make 390-415 HP. I have built that same combo for my self (street V8 powered S10) along with quite a few customers.
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Title Post: Camping in NJ Pine Barrens for the first time?
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Rating: 96% based on 9658 ratings. 4,4 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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