Mark L
ok im going to be getting a hermit crab in a month or two and it would rock if someone could give me some tips .
Answer
Owning a hermit crab is fun, but it's a lot more work than you probably think it is. If you want the hermit crabs to live long (yes, contrary to popular belief they can live for more than a year), you need to take proper care of it. So here's a few pointers:
1. NEVER listen to the pet store people. They almost never know what the hell they're talking about. It's not their fault, they receive misinformation from the higher-ups, who also don't know what they're talking about, and thus share the wrong info with us.
2. NEVER buy a painted shell. They force the hermit crabs into the shells, so they're often too small, and the crabs are waaay stressed out. Also, the paint chips and the crabs will eat the chips and that's toxic.
3. DON'T use commercial food. It's crap, and contains preservatives that are bad for them. Give them an all natural diet instead. It's much cheaper to give them table scraps than it is buying those toxic pellets.
As for what to feed them...
Hermit Crab Food Favorites
Hermit crabs enjoy certain foods that are high in nutrients and can also satisfy them with a certain taste. Some of the hermit crab favorite foods I have collected came from the forum. I have decided to post the most popular foods.
Bloodworms (freeze-dried)
Blueberries
Chicken bone marrow
Coconut
Cuttlebone
Earthworm castings
Krill (frozen & thawed or freeze-dried)
Mango
Millet
Oak leaves
Papaya
Peanut butter (organic)
Pineapple
Popcorn (no butter or salt)
Rolled oats
Shrimp (whole)
Wheat germ
- The list was from Kilimanjaro's post on the HCA -
If it's meat, make sure that it's not seasoned or salted (and don't leave it in there too long if it's raw). If you want to buy "commercial" foods, you can buy things like bloodworms and krill.
4. There are two camps on handling in the crabbing community: the hands-on and hands-off approach. Both have their pro's and con's. On the hands-on approach, the pro's are that you get to "play" with your pets, and that they may or may not be more comfortable around you (I'm in the latter category so I can't say for sure). The cons are that you can get pinched, and that you can stress your crab out (and that's bad). The hands-off approach, the pro's are that your crabs will probably be healthier they'll be because there isn't unwanted stress of being handled, and the cons are that you can't hold your pet, and are stuck just watching it. Personally, I think that hands-off is better because all crabs are caught in the wild, and so I thoroughly believe they'll never fully get used to us. They may appreciate the food and come running when they see is, but they'll still always consider us a potential predator.
Anyway, whichever camp you decide to join... Please, please, please, please, please don't touch your crab until roughly a month after you've bought him/her. This is because after purchase, all crabs need a cool down, or de-stressing period. If you handle them during this cool down period, the chances of you killing them are much, much higher because their stress levels are already so high. They'll give you signs that they're used to you (like not running like hell when you approach), so pick up on them. But again, wait around a month first.
5. Just like handling crabs, sponges too have two camps to them. However, before picking your camp for yourself, I'm going to dispel a few lingering myths that bother the crap out of me. First of all, no, the hermit crabs do not NEED a sponge to drink from. If that's the case, all areas where the hermit crabs were caught should be filled with sponges. Second of all, no, the hermit crabs will not drown if you don't put a sponge in there. Yes, if the water is too deep they can drown, but there are other ways of preventing that. I use clam shells in the bottom of my bowls to create extra exits. Third of all, sponges really don't do anything for the humidity. Yeah, it might raise it a few percents, but that's it. Finally, for the love of god, a sponge cannot replace a water bowl. They need one...
Owning a hermit crab is fun, but it's a lot more work than you probably think it is. If you want the hermit crabs to live long (yes, contrary to popular belief they can live for more than a year), you need to take proper care of it. So here's a few pointers:
1. NEVER listen to the pet store people. They almost never know what the hell they're talking about. It's not their fault, they receive misinformation from the higher-ups, who also don't know what they're talking about, and thus share the wrong info with us.
2. NEVER buy a painted shell. They force the hermit crabs into the shells, so they're often too small, and the crabs are waaay stressed out. Also, the paint chips and the crabs will eat the chips and that's toxic.
3. DON'T use commercial food. It's crap, and contains preservatives that are bad for them. Give them an all natural diet instead. It's much cheaper to give them table scraps than it is buying those toxic pellets.
As for what to feed them...
Hermit Crab Food Favorites
Hermit crabs enjoy certain foods that are high in nutrients and can also satisfy them with a certain taste. Some of the hermit crab favorite foods I have collected came from the forum. I have decided to post the most popular foods.
Bloodworms (freeze-dried)
Blueberries
Chicken bone marrow
Coconut
Cuttlebone
Earthworm castings
Krill (frozen & thawed or freeze-dried)
Mango
Millet
Oak leaves
Papaya
Peanut butter (organic)
Pineapple
Popcorn (no butter or salt)
Rolled oats
Shrimp (whole)
Wheat germ
- The list was from Kilimanjaro's post on the HCA -
If it's meat, make sure that it's not seasoned or salted (and don't leave it in there too long if it's raw). If you want to buy "commercial" foods, you can buy things like bloodworms and krill.
4. There are two camps on handling in the crabbing community: the hands-on and hands-off approach. Both have their pro's and con's. On the hands-on approach, the pro's are that you get to "play" with your pets, and that they may or may not be more comfortable around you (I'm in the latter category so I can't say for sure). The cons are that you can get pinched, and that you can stress your crab out (and that's bad). The hands-off approach, the pro's are that your crabs will probably be healthier they'll be because there isn't unwanted stress of being handled, and the cons are that you can't hold your pet, and are stuck just watching it. Personally, I think that hands-off is better because all crabs are caught in the wild, and so I thoroughly believe they'll never fully get used to us. They may appreciate the food and come running when they see is, but they'll still always consider us a potential predator.
Anyway, whichever camp you decide to join... Please, please, please, please, please don't touch your crab until roughly a month after you've bought him/her. This is because after purchase, all crabs need a cool down, or de-stressing period. If you handle them during this cool down period, the chances of you killing them are much, much higher because their stress levels are already so high. They'll give you signs that they're used to you (like not running like hell when you approach), so pick up on them. But again, wait around a month first.
5. Just like handling crabs, sponges too have two camps to them. However, before picking your camp for yourself, I'm going to dispel a few lingering myths that bother the crap out of me. First of all, no, the hermit crabs do not NEED a sponge to drink from. If that's the case, all areas where the hermit crabs were caught should be filled with sponges. Second of all, no, the hermit crabs will not drown if you don't put a sponge in there. Yes, if the water is too deep they can drown, but there are other ways of preventing that. I use clam shells in the bottom of my bowls to create extra exits. Third of all, sponges really don't do anything for the humidity. Yeah, it might raise it a few percents, but that's it. Finally, for the love of god, a sponge cannot replace a water bowl. They need one...
How do you care for a hermit crab?
hughes.joe
I am thinking of getting a Hermit Crab what are its needs?
What does it eat?
Any heating needed?
e.t.c.
Answer
Owning a hermit crab is fun, but it's a lot more work than you probably think it is. If you want the hermit crabs to live long (yes, contrary to popular belief they can live for more than a year), you need to take proper care of it. So here's a few pointers:
1. NEVER listen to the pet store people. They almost never know what the hell they're talking about. It's not their fault, they receive misinformation from the higher-ups, who also don't know what they're talking about, and thus share the wrong info with us.
2. NEVER buy a painted shell. They force the hermit crabs into the shells, so they're often too small, and the crabs are waaay stressed out. Also, the paint chips and the crabs will eat the chips and that's toxic.
3. DON'T use commercial food. It's crap, and contains preservatives that are bad for them. Give them an all natural diet instead. It's much cheaper to give them table scraps than it is buying those toxic pellets.
As for what to feed them...
Hermit Crab Food Favorites
Hermit crabs enjoy certain foods that are high in nutrients and can also satisfy them with a certain taste. Some of the hermit crab favorite foods I have collected came from the forum. I have decided to post the most popular foods.
Bloodworms (freeze-dried)
Blueberries
Chicken bone marrow
Coconut
Cuttlebone
Earthworm castings
Krill (frozen & thawed or freeze-dried)
Mango
Millet
Oak leaves
Papaya
Peanut butter (organic)
Pineapple
Popcorn (no butter or salt)
Rolled oats
Shrimp (whole)
Wheat germ
- The list was from Kilimanjaro's post on the HCA -
If it's meat, make sure that it's not seasoned or salted (and don't leave it in there too long if it's raw). If you want to buy "commercial" foods, you can buy things like bloodworms and krill.
4. There are two camps on handling in the crabbing community: the hands-on and hands-off approach. Both have their pro's and con's. On the hands-on approach, the pro's are that you get to "play" with your pets, and that they may or may not be more comfortable around you (I'm in the latter category so I can't say for sure). The cons are that you can get pinched, and that you can stress your crab out (and that's bad). The hands-off approach, the pro's are that your crabs will probably be healthier they'll be because there isn't unwanted stress of being handled, and the cons are that you can't hold your pet, and are stuck just watching it. Personally, I think that hands-off is better because all crabs are caught in the wild, and so I thoroughly believe they'll never fully get used to us. They may appreciate the food and come running when they see is, but they'll still always consider us a potential predator.
Anyway, whichever camp you decide to join... Please, please, please, please, please don't touch your crab until roughly a month after you've bought him/her. This is because after purchase, all crabs need a cool down, or de-stressing period. If you handle them during this cool down period, the chances of you killing them are much, much higher because their stress levels are already so high. They'll give you signs that they're used to you (like not running like hell when you approach), so pick up on them. But again, wait around a month first.
5. Just like handling crabs, sponges too have two camps to them. However, before picking your camp for yourself, I'm going to dispel a few lingering myths that bother the crap out of me. First of all, no, the hermit crabs do not NEED a sponge to drink from. If that's the case, all areas where the hermit crabs were caught should be filled with sponges. Second of all, no, the hermit crabs will not drown if you don't put a sponge in there. Yes, if the water is too deep they can drown, but there are other ways of preventing that. I use clam shells in the bottom of my bowls to create extra exits. Third of all, sponges really don't do anything for the humidity. Yeah, it might raise it a few percents, but that's it. Finally, for the love of god, a sponge cannot replace a water bowl. They need one.
That being said, if you do decide to use a sponge, make sure it's smaller than the bowl itself so the crabs can avoid it if they so choose. Also, you need multiple sponges, and you need to change them out daily or at the very most every 48 hours. Any longer than that and they'll begin to get bacteria on them. You need to then replace the sponge with a new one, take the old one, thoroughly rinse it out, ring it out, let it dry completely, then zap it in the microwave to sterilize it, then repeat.
I personally don't think sponges are worth it.
6. Hermit crabs are social species, so don't buy just one. You need at the very least 2, but 3 is a good starter number.
Owning a hermit crab is fun, but it's a lot more work than you probably think it is. If you want the hermit crabs to live long (yes, contrary to popular belief they can live for more than a year), you need to take proper care of it. So here's a few pointers:
1. NEVER listen to the pet store people. They almost never know what the hell they're talking about. It's not their fault, they receive misinformation from the higher-ups, who also don't know what they're talking about, and thus share the wrong info with us.
2. NEVER buy a painted shell. They force the hermit crabs into the shells, so they're often too small, and the crabs are waaay stressed out. Also, the paint chips and the crabs will eat the chips and that's toxic.
3. DON'T use commercial food. It's crap, and contains preservatives that are bad for them. Give them an all natural diet instead. It's much cheaper to give them table scraps than it is buying those toxic pellets.
As for what to feed them...
Hermit Crab Food Favorites
Hermit crabs enjoy certain foods that are high in nutrients and can also satisfy them with a certain taste. Some of the hermit crab favorite foods I have collected came from the forum. I have decided to post the most popular foods.
Bloodworms (freeze-dried)
Blueberries
Chicken bone marrow
Coconut
Cuttlebone
Earthworm castings
Krill (frozen & thawed or freeze-dried)
Mango
Millet
Oak leaves
Papaya
Peanut butter (organic)
Pineapple
Popcorn (no butter or salt)
Rolled oats
Shrimp (whole)
Wheat germ
- The list was from Kilimanjaro's post on the HCA -
If it's meat, make sure that it's not seasoned or salted (and don't leave it in there too long if it's raw). If you want to buy "commercial" foods, you can buy things like bloodworms and krill.
4. There are two camps on handling in the crabbing community: the hands-on and hands-off approach. Both have their pro's and con's. On the hands-on approach, the pro's are that you get to "play" with your pets, and that they may or may not be more comfortable around you (I'm in the latter category so I can't say for sure). The cons are that you can get pinched, and that you can stress your crab out (and that's bad). The hands-off approach, the pro's are that your crabs will probably be healthier they'll be because there isn't unwanted stress of being handled, and the cons are that you can't hold your pet, and are stuck just watching it. Personally, I think that hands-off is better because all crabs are caught in the wild, and so I thoroughly believe they'll never fully get used to us. They may appreciate the food and come running when they see is, but they'll still always consider us a potential predator.
Anyway, whichever camp you decide to join... Please, please, please, please, please don't touch your crab until roughly a month after you've bought him/her. This is because after purchase, all crabs need a cool down, or de-stressing period. If you handle them during this cool down period, the chances of you killing them are much, much higher because their stress levels are already so high. They'll give you signs that they're used to you (like not running like hell when you approach), so pick up on them. But again, wait around a month first.
5. Just like handling crabs, sponges too have two camps to them. However, before picking your camp for yourself, I'm going to dispel a few lingering myths that bother the crap out of me. First of all, no, the hermit crabs do not NEED a sponge to drink from. If that's the case, all areas where the hermit crabs were caught should be filled with sponges. Second of all, no, the hermit crabs will not drown if you don't put a sponge in there. Yes, if the water is too deep they can drown, but there are other ways of preventing that. I use clam shells in the bottom of my bowls to create extra exits. Third of all, sponges really don't do anything for the humidity. Yeah, it might raise it a few percents, but that's it. Finally, for the love of god, a sponge cannot replace a water bowl. They need one.
That being said, if you do decide to use a sponge, make sure it's smaller than the bowl itself so the crabs can avoid it if they so choose. Also, you need multiple sponges, and you need to change them out daily or at the very most every 48 hours. Any longer than that and they'll begin to get bacteria on them. You need to then replace the sponge with a new one, take the old one, thoroughly rinse it out, ring it out, let it dry completely, then zap it in the microwave to sterilize it, then repeat.
I personally don't think sponges are worth it.
6. Hermit crabs are social species, so don't buy just one. You need at the very least 2, but 3 is a good starter number.
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