assembly benches tables image
Julian
Do i need a certain type of glass to retain the amount of heat that is needed for a Bearded Dragon, or a certain type of glue?
Answer
I have to admit that I have never owned a bearded dragon, but I have built aquariums and terrariums. You'd know more about if they are capable of jumping or climbing to escape. All I can recommend is either a 3 sided glass set up with a front screen, or an all glass terrarium if you need to regulate the heat for your lizard. If you want to go with an "all glass sides" terrarium, you will need to buy sheets of glass, cut to size. The larger the tank, the thicker the glass. My largest tank is 5'Lx2W'x2'H.
The glass on this tank is3/4" thick.Your glass doesn't need to be that thick as it won't have to support the weight of water. A 1/8" should be fine if the tank is not over 2' square. 1/4" if it's a larger tank. After you decide on the size you want to build, (not forgetting the glass at the bottom of the tank) bring your measurements into a glass or window supply store. You will need a good quality non-toxic silicone cement (glue) to glue your sides and bottom of tank. If you don't have bar clamps you will need to set up a secure way of propping the sides up while your glue is curing. It's pretty basic assembly. Another person comes in handy to help hold up the glass panels until you have them propped or clamped together, after applying an even bead of glue to the joints. Let the glue cure completely. Then you are ready to install the floor. Have your helper prop your 4 sided tank on one edge, just high enough to get your arm underneath. You are going to need your hand to help lower the last bottom sheet of glass into the tank. First run a bead of silicone along the lowest inside edges of your tank. Then lower the bottom sheet downwards, from the top opening of the tank. As it is lowering, your other hand will support the glass until it is almost touching your bead of silicone. Have your helper slowly lower the tank until it is sitting flat on on the table, floor, bench...and gently push the bottom glass panel downwards until it is flat against your table. Now it's time to wait for the final gluing to cure. Once the glue is firm but rubbery and no longer smells, your ready to put your lizard in. If your lizard is a climber, you will have to build a top frame. This can be made in the shape of a picture frame, but with a screen stapled to the frame. Stapled on the outside of the frame...
You may be using an under tank heating pad or a heat lamp...that is where you come in with your knowledge of what bearded dragons need for a healthy environment. If this sounds like a heck of a lot of work, you could keep your eyes open for an old used tank, or a broken tank that's been thrown out or in someones garage.
I have to admit that I have never owned a bearded dragon, but I have built aquariums and terrariums. You'd know more about if they are capable of jumping or climbing to escape. All I can recommend is either a 3 sided glass set up with a front screen, or an all glass terrarium if you need to regulate the heat for your lizard. If you want to go with an "all glass sides" terrarium, you will need to buy sheets of glass, cut to size. The larger the tank, the thicker the glass. My largest tank is 5'Lx2W'x2'H.
The glass on this tank is3/4" thick.Your glass doesn't need to be that thick as it won't have to support the weight of water. A 1/8" should be fine if the tank is not over 2' square. 1/4" if it's a larger tank. After you decide on the size you want to build, (not forgetting the glass at the bottom of the tank) bring your measurements into a glass or window supply store. You will need a good quality non-toxic silicone cement (glue) to glue your sides and bottom of tank. If you don't have bar clamps you will need to set up a secure way of propping the sides up while your glue is curing. It's pretty basic assembly. Another person comes in handy to help hold up the glass panels until you have them propped or clamped together, after applying an even bead of glue to the joints. Let the glue cure completely. Then you are ready to install the floor. Have your helper prop your 4 sided tank on one edge, just high enough to get your arm underneath. You are going to need your hand to help lower the last bottom sheet of glass into the tank. First run a bead of silicone along the lowest inside edges of your tank. Then lower the bottom sheet downwards, from the top opening of the tank. As it is lowering, your other hand will support the glass until it is almost touching your bead of silicone. Have your helper slowly lower the tank until it is sitting flat on on the table, floor, bench...and gently push the bottom glass panel downwards until it is flat against your table. Now it's time to wait for the final gluing to cure. Once the glue is firm but rubbery and no longer smells, your ready to put your lizard in. If your lizard is a climber, you will have to build a top frame. This can be made in the shape of a picture frame, but with a screen stapled to the frame. Stapled on the outside of the frame...
You may be using an under tank heating pad or a heat lamp...that is where you come in with your knowledge of what bearded dragons need for a healthy environment. If this sounds like a heck of a lot of work, you could keep your eyes open for an old used tank, or a broken tank that's been thrown out or in someones garage.
Is Lego Creator house 6754 Family home minifigure scale?
c
I've been thinking about getting this for quite a long time now, for display and for stop motion videos. many reviews on Lego.com say that the lego creator houses are not minifigure scale. Please help!
Answer
To be honest, it's a mix of yes and no. Though it's really hard to tell without seeing the inside.
Here's the set on the official Lego site...
http://shop.lego.com/ByTheme/Product.aspx?p=6754&cn=348&d=70
You can zoom in on the main pictures to get a closer look at what I'm talking about.
The cup and the doors would lend toward mini-figure scale. The doors are framed at "6-bricks high" which is mini-figure height (technically figures average about "5-bricks high" standing upright) and these types of doors can be see on both the Fire Station (set 7208) and the Police Headquarters (set 7744) in the "City" series.
Fire Station
http://shop.lego.com/ByTheme/Product.aspx?p=7208&cn=381&d=9
Police Headquarters
http://shop.lego.com/ByTheme/Product.aspx?p=7744&cn=153&d=9
The first floor is a total of 9 bricks high, which is fairly consistent with the other two sets above. Technically the other two have the standard "8-Brick" ceiling for each floor, though is a little harder to tell on the Police HQ because you can't zoom in. A 9-brick ceiling for the first floor of the Family Home is fitting to represent the "vaulted" ceiling and to fit the arched window above the front door. The second floor also looks to be about "10-bricks" high, only 2-bricks higher than the standard 8, but I suspect the space is rather limited because of the angled construction of the roof.
The picnic bench in the back yard is NOT to scale for mini-figures. It is at a fairly appropriate height (2-bricks) which would put it at about waist-level on a mini-figure, but the benches are too narrow (only 1-stud wide) and too high in relation to the table top. A seated mini-figure on the bench would have the tips of the feet even with the table top and the majority of his body hanging out over the edge.
If I was going to tweak it to a scaled version yet keep it's sleek appearance I'd lower the benches by "1-plank" and simultaneously raise the table top by "1-plank" which would open up the space between the bench and table and you can slide a mini-figure's feet underneath so that they actually "sit" on the bench without hanging off of it.
In case you aren't familiar with it... each "plank" is 1/3 the height of the standard brick.
The bench shown consist of 13 pieces:
1x6 smooth plank (x5)
1x3 plank (x4) [replace with 1x3 brick (x2)]
1x2 brick (x4) [replace with the pieces listed in step 2a or 2b]
I'd convert in by doing the following:
1) By replacing the 4 (1x3) planks under the table top with actual 1x3 bricks It raises the table top by "1-plank" in height without making too big of a difference... it will still be around waist-level on a standing mini-figure.
2a) If you want to keep it simple just replace each 1x2 brick with a pair of 1x2 planks stacked on each other and 1 square stud on top. This keeps the table at the proper height while lowering the bench by 1-plank.
2b) If you want to give an "X-appearance" like a real bench would have, Then replace each of the 4 (1x2) bricks at the base with 4 assemblies. Each assembly consists of 1 (1x2) plank and 2 (1x1) square studs. Put 1 square stud on the bottom of each 1x2 plank and put 1 square stud on the top of each 1x2 plank (on the opposite end) so that each assembly looks a little like a "sideways-S" then just place them in the spot where the original bricks were. The bench legs will now have a "slant-like" appearance under the table, just like common real-life picnic tables have.
In my opinion it would be fairly compatible with mini-figures, but like I said, without seeing the inside, it's hard to tell if it is truely setup to be used with them. I doubt the inside is "furnished" (with chairs, kitchen, etc.) so you may need to do some "remodeling" with extra peices from other sets in order to make the inside look as good as the outside.
I wish I had the money to restart my Lego collection. =P
To be honest, it's a mix of yes and no. Though it's really hard to tell without seeing the inside.
Here's the set on the official Lego site...
http://shop.lego.com/ByTheme/Product.aspx?p=6754&cn=348&d=70
You can zoom in on the main pictures to get a closer look at what I'm talking about.
The cup and the doors would lend toward mini-figure scale. The doors are framed at "6-bricks high" which is mini-figure height (technically figures average about "5-bricks high" standing upright) and these types of doors can be see on both the Fire Station (set 7208) and the Police Headquarters (set 7744) in the "City" series.
Fire Station
http://shop.lego.com/ByTheme/Product.aspx?p=7208&cn=381&d=9
Police Headquarters
http://shop.lego.com/ByTheme/Product.aspx?p=7744&cn=153&d=9
The first floor is a total of 9 bricks high, which is fairly consistent with the other two sets above. Technically the other two have the standard "8-Brick" ceiling for each floor, though is a little harder to tell on the Police HQ because you can't zoom in. A 9-brick ceiling for the first floor of the Family Home is fitting to represent the "vaulted" ceiling and to fit the arched window above the front door. The second floor also looks to be about "10-bricks" high, only 2-bricks higher than the standard 8, but I suspect the space is rather limited because of the angled construction of the roof.
The picnic bench in the back yard is NOT to scale for mini-figures. It is at a fairly appropriate height (2-bricks) which would put it at about waist-level on a mini-figure, but the benches are too narrow (only 1-stud wide) and too high in relation to the table top. A seated mini-figure on the bench would have the tips of the feet even with the table top and the majority of his body hanging out over the edge.
If I was going to tweak it to a scaled version yet keep it's sleek appearance I'd lower the benches by "1-plank" and simultaneously raise the table top by "1-plank" which would open up the space between the bench and table and you can slide a mini-figure's feet underneath so that they actually "sit" on the bench without hanging off of it.
In case you aren't familiar with it... each "plank" is 1/3 the height of the standard brick.
The bench shown consist of 13 pieces:
1x6 smooth plank (x5)
1x3 plank (x4) [replace with 1x3 brick (x2)]
1x2 brick (x4) [replace with the pieces listed in step 2a or 2b]
I'd convert in by doing the following:
1) By replacing the 4 (1x3) planks under the table top with actual 1x3 bricks It raises the table top by "1-plank" in height without making too big of a difference... it will still be around waist-level on a standing mini-figure.
2a) If you want to keep it simple just replace each 1x2 brick with a pair of 1x2 planks stacked on each other and 1 square stud on top. This keeps the table at the proper height while lowering the bench by 1-plank.
2b) If you want to give an "X-appearance" like a real bench would have, Then replace each of the 4 (1x2) bricks at the base with 4 assemblies. Each assembly consists of 1 (1x2) plank and 2 (1x1) square studs. Put 1 square stud on the bottom of each 1x2 plank and put 1 square stud on the top of each 1x2 plank (on the opposite end) so that each assembly looks a little like a "sideways-S" then just place them in the spot where the original bricks were. The bench legs will now have a "slant-like" appearance under the table, just like common real-life picnic tables have.
In my opinion it would be fairly compatible with mini-figures, but like I said, without seeing the inside, it's hard to tell if it is truely setup to be used with them. I doubt the inside is "furnished" (with chairs, kitchen, etc.) so you may need to do some "remodeling" with extra peices from other sets in order to make the inside look as good as the outside.
I wish I had the money to restart my Lego collection. =P
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